Dress of the Day / February 22, 2012

My pick for today was inspired by Katharine Marris, my former history student at Moore College of Art and Design. Katharine told me she suspected I'd love Zac Posen's Resort 2012 collection, and she was right! Those of you who follow my blog note a definite bias toward fashion pre-1960. One of the things I love about Posen's designs is his obvious knowledge of and interest in the fashion of earlier eras. His clothes are modern and classic, with a high quotient of glamour. Posen said about this collection: "It's about how to be dressed up and poised, but still cool."

I selected a few of my favorite looks from Resort 2012. The model is Coca Rocha. To see all 33 looks, click here.

The two most prominent silhouettes in the collection are the structured jacket and the mermaid skirt. Here they look boldly feminine together.

The extended shoulders and nipped waists on the jackets remind me of the 1940s, one of my favorite fashion periods. Add a peplum, and I'm gleeful.

This white dress also evokes the 1940s, its crisp lines and detail at the shoulders and neckline give it interest as well as simplicity.

Here are two dazzling mermaid dresses. The first is flamenco-like, the ruffles of the sleeves balanced by those on the skirt, the sheer insets at the sides help the crisscross front streamline the entire look.

This vermillion gown is a pièce de résistance in 720 hand-dyed yards.

I love how Posen can combine the most extravagant styles with the simplest in the same collection and make them feel part of an organic whole. Here, a classic trenchcoat looks dressy and elegant.



Dress of the Day - February 20, 2012

Today's dress is a sequel to yesterday's, as it is also inspired by the Opera Company of Philadelphia's production of Mozart's opera "Abduction from the Seraglio" I saw yesterday. This opera, which tells the tale of Europeans held captive by a Turkish pasha, is a vivid example of 18th-century musical orientalism, with Mozart's evocation of the music of the Turkish janissary bands. The alla turca style was not closely related to actual Turkish music; it was more like an imagined version of this exotic style. Its hallmarks were march tempi, percussion instruments such as triangle, cymbal, and bass drum, and often the keys of C Major or A Minor.

In the OCP production, one of the main costumes for Konstanze, by designer Guia Buzzi, reminded me of the "lampshade dress," a famous look by the great French couturier Paul Poiret. He revolutionized fashion in the early part of the 20th century by freeing women from the confines (and corsets) of the Belle Époque. Captivated by images of the Orient after seeing Rimsky-Korsakov's Schéhérazade at the Ballets Russes in 1910, Poiret created looks inspired by the Near East, such as "lampshade" tunics and "harem" pants. Here are two examples of this striking look, one from the Victoria & Albert Museum and one in a drawing by George Lepape from the Gazette du Bon Ton. Note the use of exotic headgear, turbans and a band wrapped across the forehead, as well as necklaces and the risqué, transparent bodice in the drawing. The second example also shows Poiret's "hobble skirt," a narrow silhouette that made walking difficult.

Paul Poiret (1912)

Lampshade dress

Victoria & Albert Museum

Paul Poiret (1914)

Le Collier Nouveau evening gown

Georges Lepape, Gazette du Bon Ton

Dress of the Day 2-19-2012

I'm back with "Dress of the Day": Madeleine Vionnet (1922). Famous dancer Irene Castle wears draped Vionnet gown complete with foliage theme, jeweled tiara, long strands of pearls, and extravagant ostrich plume fan. Why did I think of this look today? I'm about to see Opera Company of Philadelphia's production of Mozart's "Abduction from the Seraglio" and think this exotic number would be perfect for enjoying this Turkish-themed opera. Not exactly practical...but should fashion always, or ever, be practical?

 

Rehearsal video - Vivaldi Piccolo Concerto

Here's a video clip of me rehearsing Vivaldi's Concerto for Piccolo and Orchestra in C Major, RV 443 with Spartanburg Philharmonic and conductor Sarah Ioannides, a few days ago in South Carolina.

It was fantastic getting to work with Sarah again. We were friends and made a lot of music together when we were students at the Curtis Institute of Music. She's a wonderful musician who combines great skills as a conductor with fine leadership of the orchestra.

Hello my friends!

Clearly I haven't been a very active blogger these past few months. I've been extremely busy playing concerts, practicing, rehearsing, teaching, and generally furthering the cause of Dolce Suono Ensemble. But I still make time to be a consumer of culture as well as a producer of it and will be sharing news as it comes up. I read a very interesting piece in the Wall Street Journal on Wednesday with a forecast for fall colors in fashion. The Pantone company evaluates orders and collects data from designers to predict the most popular colors in wardrobes this fall. Here are the findings, with descriptions by Pantone's Leatrice Eiseman. Notice how the "women only" colors are slightly punchier or warmer versions of the "men only" colors.

All About Chocolate - guest writer David Bruce Duncan

I've invited my friend David, a connoisseur of fine chocolate, to share his extensive knowledge of boutique chocolatiers in the Philadelphia area.

Boutique Chocolate in the Philadelphia area
By David Bruce Duncan

Chocoholics unite. There are mounds of confectionery chocolates to be discovered and conquered and millions of Americans willing to take on the challenge. So it begins, my personal “holy grail” quest for the best of the best chocolates, recognizing that we each have a varying taste palette that will take us to many different delights and conclusions.Pennsylvania has a distinguished history of making chocolate. At the turn of the 19th century, Hershey produced the first “candy bar” for Americans. Early in the 20th century, Asher’s Chocolates in Germantown developed a variety of chocolate candy treats. The Whitman’s Sampler (started by Stephen F. Whitman on Market St.in Philadelphia in 1942) gained its reputation with a map identifying each different piece.Market St.in Philadelphia in 1942) gained its reputation with a map identifying each different piece.

So now we come specifically to the Philadelphia area's handmade gourmet chocolates.

Aux Petits Delices
One of America’s premier French chocolatiers and Master pastry chef Patrick Gauphron came to the US in 1978 to work as a pastry chef at Le Bec Fin. He opened his own shop, Aux Petits Delices in Wayne in 1986 and dazzled Philadelphians with his extraordinary European style of making chocolates, desserts and pastries. He is known for pushing the envelope with intense yet delicate flavorings such as his new Basque pimento chocolate. Other noteworthy creations are his raspberry ganache in white chocolate and key lime ganache center. A trip to his shop is reminiscent of the finest rue St. Honoré and Place de la Madelaine confectionery boutiques.

John & Kira’s
John & Kira’s are my personal stars. Each taste sensation is silky smooth and the flavors are sublime. The mint is the perfect blend of the finest chocolate taste, with a light natural mint leaf aroma. The strawberry is not so much like adding strawberry jam but rather fresh picked fraises des bois in a pairing with incredible rich chocolate. All work is hand made, piece by piece. They employ colored cocoa butter in the design of fantastic hand painted bees filled with caramel and ladybugs filled with ganache centers.

Éclat Chocolate
A burly, aproned chocolatier working both the front and the back of the shop, Christopher Curtain in West Chester is the personification of how a chocolatier should appear. He’s always searching for new distinct and intense flavors. The day I was in the shop there were three tasting dishes of flat chocolates with roasted corn, Aztec chili and another with pretzels. His liquid caramels are incredible. The anise and strawberry lingered on the palate.

Antoine Amrani Chocolates
Antoine Amrani runs a small factory-shop in East Norriton. He uses Weiss chocolate, rarely used outside of France, as the base for his creations, and designs his own molds so that the resulting chocolates are jewel-like works of art. Antoine offers wine pairing and dessert making classes on the premises.

Jagielky’s Homemade Candies
This third generation “Mom and Pop” store that started on North 5th Streetin Philadelphia now has shops in both Ventnor and Margate. Their Rocky Road, almond butter crunch and turtles are over-the-top in both quality and taste.North 5th Streetin Philadelphia now has shops in both Ventnor and Margate. Their Rocky Road, almond butter crunch and turtles are over-the-top in both quality and taste.

So there you have it, plenty of information to renew your own personal quest for the “holy grail” of chocolates. Commencez, s'il vous plâit.

New CD Released!

I am excited to announce the release of Odyssey: 11 American Premieres for Flute and Piano, my 2-CD set with pianist Charles Abramovic on Innova Recordings.

This project has truly been an odyssey - a journey of musical discovery. Charlie and I recorded 11 works by a brilliant lineup of composers who present a diverse panorama of musical styles and backgrounds.

The composers are Mason Bates, Benjamin C.S. Boyle, Richard Danielpour, Michael Djupstrom, Katherine Hoover, Daniel Kellogg, Gerald Levinson, David Ludwig, Andrew Rudin, David Bennett Thomas, and Zhou Tian. It was a thrill to work with these great musicians and bring their flute works out to the listening public.

To read more and buy the CD, visit our Artist Page at Innova:

http://www.innova.mu/artist1.asp?skuID=469